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1/21/2008
Touchdown in the DF
Two weeks after arriving in Mexico City, I feel as though I’ve finally begun to adjust to life in such a sprawling, diverse and often chaotic city. Although I have never been to Mexico before, I am unsure if a previous trip to Mexico’s tourist destinations would have prepared me for life in the Distrito Federal. It is said that anyone seeking to understand Mexico, whether it be politically, culturally or historically, must begin in the DF. The city’s altitude (around 7,500ft), pollution and crowds were a bit overwhelming at first, but the city has so much to offer that it’s worth the adjustment.
Voladores recreate a Totonacan ritual in front of the Museo Nacional de Antropologia.
The city of 23 million is the center of Mexico’s government and economy, but also to the nation’s history both prior to and after Conquest. After only two weeks here, I’ve only seen a fraction of the city, but these glimpses have been unlike any other travel experience I’ve had. The city has such a richly layered and integrated past, with the remains of the Aztec Templo Mayor resting right next to the colonial Cathedral, which looms over dancers claiming to recreate indigenous dance in the city’s zocalo. A trip to the Museo Nacional de Antropologia offered well-curated and impressive looks into the various periods of the city’s history. As one of our professors said, the Mexico City has a heart made of Aztec stone, but is also in the processing of negotiating its future.
A view of Cholula Cathedral from the zocalo.
Although Mexico City is part of the western world, its past and its present conditions make for a fascinating intersection of Western traditions and ancient practice, cultural pride and a desire to enter into the wider world, widespread poverty and extreme wealth (Mexico is home to the world’s richest man, as well as several other insanely wealthy individuals). It is these dichotomies that make it such an interesting representative of the second world. Speaking to Mexicans, it is evident that the nation has strong perceptions of the challenges that is faces, but also aspires to more. However, talking about such touchy events as the crisis of Mexican democracy after the 2006 elections or the country’s more distant past of conquest and colonization quickly illuminates the tenuous nature of Mexico’s situation. Although I am excited to travel to China and France, this condition and these diversities offer amazing opportunities for experiencing and observing.
I have very much appreciated being on a program like Global Cities. Living with a Mexican family and studying with Mexican, American and French students has led me to speak in a sometimes incomprehensible mix of languages, but has also given many opportunities for comparison, discussion and insight. I’ve had little to no experience with Spanish, so living in a city with few English speakers is a true immersion experience. Since I live and study with students from Sciences Po, I’ve had the unique opportunity to refine my French in Mexico. Our classes are taught in English and have been good thus far, offering an introduction to Mexico’s history, politics and economics.
Travel in Mexico is cheap and easy, so we’ve been able to visit a number of towns already. This last weekend, we visited Puebla (known for its Cathedral, pottery industry and Volkswagen factory), Cholula (home of the world’s largest pyramid), and Atlixco (a small town southwest of Puebla). With Mexico City’s pollution and crowds, this was a relaxing way to spend a few days.
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2/10/2008
A view from the bus on the way to the mountains
A few weeks into my time in Mexico City, it is amazing how quickly time is going. After having midterms this week, I already find myself making lists of things to do before leaving Mexico.
However, the time that I have already had in Mexico has been invaluable. Immersion does seem to be the best way to learn a language, as my non-existent Spanish upon arrival has now at least gotten me through some basic conversations. The nature of the program has allowed me small class sizes (only 4 people in my Spanish class) and numerous opportunities to meet and speak with Mexican students and scholars.
Last weekend, we spent four days in Oaxaca, one of Mexico’s poorest, most Southern states. During our time there, we rented a cabana (called a yu’yu), in Cuajimoloyas, a small town in the mountains, about two hours outside of Oaxaca City. Just the bus ride up to the site was an experience matched by few in my life. Although images of Mexico are often dominated by beaches in Acapulco or the urban chaos of the DF, this country is amazingly diverse and physically beautiful. Our yu’yu was located right next to a town of some 300 residents, where we ate meals for 30 pesos in a local restaurant and got to see an amazing sunset and sunrise. The following morning, a guide took us on a hike in the surrounding area, which offered gorgeous views of the mountains and a glimpse into the ways the townspeople used the products of their environment to make tea, mezcal, and medicines, amongst other things.
A representation of idenigenous dance by the Ballet Folklorico, Palacio de Bellas Artes
Although it has been wonderful to see different parts of Mexico and to spend time here in Mexico City, being abroad has also made me think a lot about what it means to live somewhere and what is merely tourism. Tourism has become an enormous part of Mexico’s livelihood, and has had a visible effect on the country’s culture. In multiple meetings with Mexican economists and officials, tourism is always cited as a primary source of income and international attention.
However, it is interesting to see the ways is which culture is filtered and presented for tourist consumption. From the voladores near the Museum of Anthropology, to plastic reproductions of the Aztec calendar sold in markets, to the famous Ballet Folklorico in the Palacio de Bellas Artes, tropes of Mexican nativism and exoticism are continually repackaged and commodified. Although many say that this is merely evidence of globalization and modernity, it is still difficult to observe the manipulation of the indigenous image and the ways in which these cultural presentations often hide real problems facing Mexico’s population.
Although such trends are worrisome, efforts like the eco-tourism campaigns in Oaxaca (which made it into the New York Times this week) and unedited presentations of regional music and dance here in Mexico City are also encouraging. Considering Mexico’s history of political turmoil and its current moment of economic and social division, it is clear that intelligent and balanced cultural efforts are necessary as a means of promoting Mexican solidarity and identity.
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March 5, 2008
The Palacio de Bellas Artes: located in the city’s Centro Historico.
The last two weeks have been hectic with writing, class and last minute visits to sites in Mexico City. Our final exams and research presentations are this week. It is overwhelming how quickly 2 months have gone. I feel as though I am beginning to become accustomed to life here and am much more comfortable hearing, and kind of speaking, Spanish. Although it is sad to be leaving Mexico City right when this is beginning to happen, the prospect of Shanghai and Paris is exciting and makes work this week a bit difficult...
Much of my time here in Mexico City has been spent working on a comparative research study of musical institutions in Chicago, Mexico City, and, soon to come, Paris. I had planned a research program while participating in the Study Abroad Research Program (SARP) in Spring 2007, but have been forced to rework these plans due to the focus of the Global Cities program. Although I am not conducting my proposed study on music pirating in Mexico City, my current work on prominent musical institutions seeks to examine many of the same processes of repertorial choice, consumption and globalization. SARP was an invaluable process for forming research skills and has made this year much easier (if you have the chance, do it!).
In Chicago, I began my project studying Symphony Center, looking at the ways in which repertoire is programmed and represented, with a particular attention to world music groups. I spent quite a bit of time examining current and past promotional materials, as well as a decent amount of concert attendance. I’m currently conducting a similar study of the Palacio de Bellas Artes here in Mexico City. The Palacio is an impressive building intimately tied to Mexico’s 20th century history. Construction was started under the Diaz dictatorship in the early 1900s and went through the Revolution, the PRI and is now a symbol of continuing efforts to create a national culture in Mexico.
Concert benefiting flood victims in the state of Tabasco.
The group leaves for two weeks in Shanghai on March 15 and I find myself upset that we won’t be there longer. With the New York Philharmonic’s recent Asian tour, this would be an interesting time to study such institutions there.
After a research presentation and exam tomorrow, the Mexico City leg of the program will be finished and a few of us will be off for a few days in Cancun - a nice, relaxing goodbye to Mexico.
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