Christie Stiehl's Blog
Program: Culture and Society in Rabat, Morocco (SIT)
Major: Communication Sciences & Disorders
Class: Communication 2010
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August/September 2008
Salam ‘Alikum!It’s midnight in Rabat and I’m getting ready for my second meal of the evening. Our SIT arrival coincided with the first day of Ramadan, a month long fast for Muslims during all daylight hours. Since Morocco is 99% Muslim, you can imagine how difficult it would be to find food during the day or how awkward you would feel drinking water in public places. Some students have chosen to try fasting. I haven’t because I don’t feel like I would really understand since Muslims fast for their religion, not for a new experience. The upside of Ramadan is the nightlife. After everyone has broken the fast, Rabat comes alive. All the cafes are filled and young people abound.
The first three weeks can only be described in one word. Overwhelming. This SIT program does not hold your hand. On the second day we piled on the bus and it proceeded to drop us off in places around the city. Our task, to find our way back to the Center. Alone. !!!!! I was slightly terrified. To be dropped off in a random place in a city you’re unfamiliar with, customs you haven’t been briefed on, and a language you don’t know is scary. Needless to say everyone made it back, eventually. I think one of the biggest things students are struggling with is the amenities available in our homestays. Most of us have Turkish toilets which means a ceramic hole that you squat over. Some of us have the kind of showers we’re used to, others use buckets, and some just don’t have one. When I first used the Turkish toilet I said out loud to myself “Welcome to Morocco Christie, here we go.” 
Now I’m falling into the groove of things. I’ve learned enough darija (Moroccan Arabic) to get by, I’m more familiar with the city, and I have a regular class schedule. Every weekday is 3 hours of fus’ha (Standard Arabic) and a lecture on a various topic pertaining to Morocco. My homestay family is better than I could have asked for. Moroccans are extremely hospitable and they couldn’t stuff me with anymore food than they already have. My host mom explained to me in French (which I speak very little of) and hand motions that the reason she takes in students is because she understands that some people see hijabs (veils) and think terrorism.
She wants to show students the truth about Islam, that it’s respectful, peaceful, and that we share the same God.
Bslema,
Christie aka Hinde (my Moroccan name my family gave me)
October 2008
Where does the time go when you’re abroad? The time is fast approaching when I will be set off on my own to do my Independent Research Project. This is an element unique to SIT programs that had a major impact on my decision to apply to an SIT program. For SIT Morocco we have three weeks to travel and explore any Moroccan topic. I have my heart set on researching the resources available to Autistic children and their parents in Morocco. My hypothesis is that while there are some organizations present in the country, they are set up by parents who need support. This means that while the TLC necessary to work with these children is there, the professional techniques and research will be lacking. I’ll keep you updated on what I find- or you can read the 30 page paper I have to write :P
Last week we went on our “Southern Excursion” trip which took us camel riding in the Sahara desert, trekking through flash floods in the Middle Atlas mountains (not planned), marveling in the wonders of Marrakech (a Moroccan Disneyland) and dropping us off in the tranquil seaside village of Essaouira. I met an Amazirghi young man in the Sahara who explained that because of the closed borders between Algeria and Morocco his nomadic tribe was forced to settle in one place ten years ago. Now they depend on tourism for income. While putting Europeans on camels and prancing them around may not be difficult, going into the wells to look for souvenir fossils can be. Hassan explained to me that his father goes for two-week periods into deep wells close to the Moroccan-Algerian border in order to mine for these fossils. When I asked him how he felt about being dependent on tourists he answered with optimism, “More tourists come every year. It’s getting better.” 
In Essaouria I met a spice seller who has a degree in science but has been in the spice business for over 15 years. In Rabat I had tea with a DVD seller who has a degree in Moroccan cooking. When I asked them if one day they would pursue their desired profession I was answered with apathy. Being able to put food on the table is much more important than following your dream. In contrast, since Rabat is the capital, it’s not unusual to see protests on the main street. Young people with university degrees are demanding that the government give them the jobs they worked for. I wonder if Moroccans young people are shifting towards a rights based mindset?
Yesterday our program had a discussion with Moroccan students at the local public university about U.S. politics and its impact on Morocco. It’s humbling to see how much Moroccan students know about the United States and how little most Americans know about Morocco. All of the Moroccan students we spoke with were behind Obama because he is “black like us” and because he represents change for them. McCain is another Bush in their eyes, Obama someone who might keep his African descent in mind when president.
On Saturday we’re off to Oulmes for our “Village Stay.” For 6 days we will be staying with Amazirgh families, milking cows, making bread, using nature as a bathroom, and living without any of our usual luxuries. I’m ready. Yela! Let’s go!
November 2008
At home I survive via supermarkets, electricity, and indoor plumbing, and heating. These are all things I don't have to think about and allow me to focus on school, work, or leisure activities. This week I had to think about all these things on a daily basis when I spent 6 days with a rural family in the Middle Atlas mountains. It was a twenty-five minute walk through the mountains to get to a road, and an hour commute to get into town. It doesn't get much more rural
than this.
Every day we went to the well to get water, made bread, and took the sheep out to pasture, and milked the cows. The family I lived with was really nice but also really intense. My host mother and father had 4 teenage girls and a 7-year-old boy. The 7-year-old old and I had the most fun, I would chase him around dodging cow poo, the guard dogs, and chickens.
In the end I learned that…I'm a city girl.
This weekend is recover from the village stay and learn how to cook. My host mom is going to teach me how to make hobz (homemade disc shaped flat-bread) and tajine (slow-cooked meat and vegetables). Then I will be able to make: toast, cereal, macaroni and cheese, and tajine.
